All dogs require regular, careful grooming. It can be a relatively simple task when done on a regular basis. With regular basic care, your Maltese can remain fully coated & proudly wear the silky, luxurious coat the breed Standard. However, if the coat is let go beyond repair, the coat will take endless time & energy to restore it to its natural luster & length.

You'll find matters simplified by choosing a particular place for grooming the dog each time. Grooming should be a common practice in your daily routine. You'll make it easier for yourself by placing the grooming table where the light is good & where the dog will have the fewest distractions. The tabletop should be a rather small area to reduce the temptation for the dog to "wander off". You should eliminate temptations by keeping toys, bones, or biscuits or other family pets out of sight of the grooming area. The dog will become restless if he thinks he's missing something. Make the dog realize there is work to be done & that you mean to do it. Be firm - but gentle - about it.

The first consideration should be that the table is covered by a rubber mat, steady & doesn't wiggle, & the dog has firm footing & feels secure at that height.

Generally speaking, the natural bristle hairbrush should be used & the coat should be brushed out in layers from the skin to the ends of the hair. If the brush is gathering too much hair on one side of the bristles you are not holding it properly. The dead hair you brush out should be evenly distributed all over the surface of the bristles. The coat should be brushed in the direction in which it is to fall. The one exception to this is in the case of puppies. Here the method of grooming or brushing the coat can be said to be "in every which way." At this tender age, it does the hair itself no actual harm & stimulates the skin & hair cells to encourage the growth of the coat.

Particular attention should be given to the feet. The feet are usually the first part of the dog to get dirty & may stay that way. Wiping them off with wet paper towels will help, especially in winter if the dog has been walking on sidewalks that have been sprinkled with salt to help melt ice. It is irritating to the feet & not good for the dog if it licks its feet.

Nails should be trimmed periodically with great care given to not cutting them too short. If the quick is cut, excessive bleeding may result which will upset the puppy. Bleeding can be stopped be applying wet cotton to the nail, smearing it with a little Vaseline or using a styptic pencil. Ice applied directly to the nail tip sometimes helps also.

Following is a list of recommended items that you are likely to need for grooming your Maltese. There are, obviously, additional pieces of equipment that you would want to have on hand.

Natural bristle brush

A wide & a narrow width comb

Spray battles or atomizers

Wrapping paper - rice, wax, porous paper, net or handiwraps cut to size

Baby powder &/or cornstarch

Tangle remover lotion

Shampoo - a brand best suited to your dog's coat

A dry shampoo for between baths

Balsam creme rinse

Hair control spray

Knitting or crochet needle (for making the part)

Rubber bands for top knot or wrappings

Hair bows

Nail clippers

The first thing to look for when grooming your Maltese is any tangles that might have gathered since the last grooming session. These will probably be found on the under side of the dog and behind the elbows. One of the easiest ways to eliminate these is to turn the dog over on its back on your lap, or perhaps on the table. Take a little bit of the mat in your hands & try to separate it gently with your fingers. Next, take a comb & carefully work it out from the ends of the hair fist & work up toward the body, until you get to the skin. When the mat has all been separated, start brushing out the tangled hairs until all remaining hairs are free. Then brush them back into the rest of the coat.

While the puppy is on its back, it is a good time also to trim the nails. If the puppy is trained to lie in this position at an early age it will save you much grief in later months when a heavier coat may tangle. Rubbing the puppy's stomach, & talking to it will also help in getting it to tolerate this position. The puppy should also be taught to lie on its side, as well as to stand still so that the body coat can be given full attention in all areas. Standing for grooming is also good practice for the show ring. The noose on the grooming arm can help accustom the dog to the feel of a show lead also. Just be certain that the noose does not 'hang' the dog or he will not like grooming or the show ring! Be sure the dog is secure & never left on the table unattended.

When the coat 8is all brushed out, use the knitting needle to make the part from the nose to the tip of the tail & brush the coat downward on each side.

When groom8ing the head, special care should be taken to protect the eyes. Steel combs & sharp bristles on the brush can damage eyes permanently & the dogs themselves seem to sense this danger. They will be extremely uncomfortable while you are working in this area once they have been "nicked." A little reassuring conversation at this point will help tremendously.

One of the most charming features of the Maltese is the traditional little top knots over the eyes. This is the gathering of hair from the top of the head secured with a rubber band, barrette or ribbon bows. Rubber bands can be purchased at most variety stores, pet shops or concession booths at the dog shows, or by direct mail from ads appearing in breed magazines devoted to these toy breeds. There is also available a specially designed elastic band that does not risk pulling out as much hair as the regular rubber bands. These are especially recommended for show dogs where every hair must be preserved.

When learning to make the top knots, you will find you get the best results by observing & leaning from others - for instance, the person from whom you bought your dog. But basically the hair is gathered from the outside corner of the eye to the part in the center of the head, doubled over & secured with the rubber band, letting the hair fall to the sides of the face.

Many Maltese owners prefer the single top knot that we see on the Yorkshire Terrier which is gathered at the top of the head secured with a rubber band with the hair falling down the back of the neck.

Once the rubber bands are secured, be certain that the knot is not so tight that it pulls the eyes or ears out of their natural position, or that loose hairs not caught in it are pulling the skin. Move the bands back & forth & around in place to be sure there is no pulling or the dog will scratch at them & break off a lot of the hairs in an attempt to ease the tension. If there is any tension or tightness, loosen the hair between the band & the skin until the tautness is relieved. Then attach the little bows & praise the dog for its beauty!

Once you put the dog on the floor, watch it for a moment to see that it does not scratch at the rubber bands or try to rub them off against the furniture, floor, or with its paws. If it does try to get them off, remove the band gently & immediately, & repeat the procedure, until you get it right. Remove the rubber bands with scissors if possible. Trying to slip them off the hair tends to break the hair & can be painful for the dog.

Practice makes perfect, & there is a knack to preparing top knots correctly. Once you learn, it quickly becomes second nature.

The ear is an extremely sensitive organ & must be handled with care. With this in mind, the ears should be kept clean & clean smelling. You can periodically test with a cotton swab to give you an indication if your dog's ears need to be cleaned & give you a general idea of how often it is needed.

Do not "dig" down or try to penetrate the inner ear canal. A hint would be to draw an imaginary line from the ear base to the nose along the side of the face & keep the swab in that direction. Gently twirl the cotton-tipped swab rather than rub out any matter you may find there. If it continues to build up or becomes dark in color a visit to the veterinarian is recommended, since this may indicate a more serious condition than normal earwax.

Use eyebrow tweezers to pull out any matted hair from within the ear canal. The air thus allowed to enter the cleared ear will help keep the ears clean. The hair on the outer ear will prevent dust & dirt from entering the canal.

As with all breeds of dogs that are close to the ground, the Maltese do suffer from watering eyes. This constant tearing has a tendency in about 90% of the dogs to cause a brownish stain on the fur around the eyes.

This brown discoloration is not only unattractive & detracts from the adorable expression on their faces, but is a particular problem for show dogs when perfection in grooming is a must. There are many "variations on a theme" for keeping this problem under control & very likely as many methods of preventing it as their are Maltese owners & exhibitors.

Some Maltese have runnier eyes than others, & some stain darker than others. It is also an established fact that when Maltese are teething they have a tendency toward watery eyes - & when the pollen count is high, or when the air is filled with what might be considered irritants, i.e., room deodorizers, sawdust, & so on.

Most Maltese owners prevent this problem by daily rinsing the eyes with Eyebrite. Eyebrite is obtainable at any drug store & comes with complete instructions as to use, & results. There is another commercial product on the market called Diamond Eye, which is put on the hair, not tin the eye, which will prevent brown stain. Careful attention with these two products, one for use in the eyes, & one for use on the hair around the eyes, will minimize the stain, if not eliminate the problem entirely.

Even if you tie the side & bottom "whiskers" in papers or rubber bands while your Maltese eats, food will undoubtedly stick to the fur & a washing will be necessary to prevent the hair from developing an unpleasant odor. If rubber bands are used you can rinse the whiskers in a small bowl of water, squeeze dry with paper towels, sprinkle them with cornstarch & brush them dry. You must be sure that all food is rinsed away. Make sure that, when applying the rubber bands, the chin hairs are not pulled so tight that they interfere with the dog's ability to eat. If the lips, for instance, are pulled back too tightly he may not swallow naturally. After applying the bands, or wraps, check to see it the mouth is held in a normal position.

Wrapping the Coat Many owners, especially owners of show dogs, put up their dog's coat in "papers" between shows to prevent the ends of the hair from breaking off & to insure the longest possible growth. Coats that trail on the floor have a tendency to break or wear off & never attain any greater length.

The art of putting the coat up in papers, netting, or any of the other things used for this purpose is truly an "art" which requires observation, learning & lots of practice in order not to do more harm than good to the coat. How to wrap the hair, where to wrap the coat, how long to keep it wrapped & what is best to use for wrapping the coat are all very much a matter of individual preference experience if you are to do it at all.

It is possible to have a show dog's coat in good condition without wrapping it. Rather than do it wrong, it is better not to do it at all if you don't learn from a good teacher. There are specific & very definite ways to cut & fold the "wraps" & to apply the rubber bands to hold them in place & still have them be comfortable for the dog.

In humid climates a more porous material should be used as a wrap. It must also be remembered that a dog cannot be wrapped & let that way indefinitely. The wraps must be removed at least every couple of days & the coat given a complete grooming to assure the coat gets sufficient air & the skin proper stimulation. Wrapping should never be considered a substitute for grooming.

You will be dealing with between 26 to 28 wraps, depending on the length & thickness of your dog's coat & the size of your dog. Cut your papers ahead of time, once you've decided on what you are going to use. Wax paper is most commonly used, although many people are now using "Handi-wipes" or other specially impregnated paper products because they are porous & allow the hair to "breathe." A porous wrap is essential in a damp climate.

These papers should be approximately 8 inches long by 3 inches wide. They should never be put on over a dirty coat, or one that is matted. And only the longer hair need be wrapped. Gold your wrap in three sections lengthwise. Open the paper. Place a strand of the hair half way down the middle section. Gold one of the outer sections over the hair; then fold the other outer section over the hair. Fold up 7 under once & then fold up under once again. Wrap your rubber band twice around the entire folded section.

Test to see if there is any hair being pulled uncomfortably, & on the tail & ears especially be sure you have not included any skin or ear leather. You can do this by making sure you can get a comb through the hair between the paper & the skin. Check to see that the eyes & lips & ears comfortable & will scratch at the papers.

If your Maltese wiggles & squirms & backs off & fights you every bit of the way when grooming time rolls around, chances are you are being a little too rough. True, there are dogs that never do get to like being groomed, & these dogs require extra patience &, quite possibly, extra work, since they will employ every scheme known to canines to put you of & hamper your progress. But more than likely, if you meet resistance, it is because the dog is genuinely uncomfortable.

The most important thing is to be gentle. Be even more gentle in the sensitive areas such as the groin, the feet, under the tail, around the eyes, the testicles, etc. The calmest of dogs will flinch when he sees the shiny teeth of a steel comb flashing overhead

Since we are dealing with a long-coated breed, it will pay off later to get the dog to like being groomed from the time he is a very young puppy. Grooming may never seem easy even if you are doing it right, but it can be a gratifying experience for both dog & owner if approached with common sense & patience. Let you dog see that you take a definite pride in taking care of him. He will appreciate the attention & it will result in a closer communication between you & your dog thought this time spent together. And he'll certainly look more beautiful.

Try starting the grooming proves when the puppy is just a few days old, using a baby's toothbrush for the coat. Play with the puppies; feet, singling out the toes, standing the puppies briefly in future show pose & propping up their tails & holding up their heads, giving a little scratching under the chin at the same time. Repeat the words "stay," & "good dog," as a clue to future ring procedure. It all adds to a bright future & an outgoing personality.

One should always keep in mind that drafts are very dangerous for puppies especially. Also, never leave a puppy partially dry, or put it out in the cold while it is still damp.

If you believe a bath exposes & endangers a puppy unnecessarily, it is wise to know about the dry shampoos mentioned before when a cleaning job is deemed necessary. These dry shampoos, plus regular brushing, will keep a puppy reasonably clean as well as stimulate the hair follicles & encourage the natural hair oils necessary for a good coat.

Bathing a dog can be hard work, & if you don't know a few of the tricks of the trade, it can be a disaster with a long-haired dog, with everyone & every thing ending up equally wet. We would suggest you wear a rubber apron or an old, lightweight raincoat with the sleeves cut off at the elbows as proper attire, because sooner or later your dog is going to start shaking himself.

 There are probably as many theories on how, & how often, to bathe a dog as there are dog owner. There is, however, no set rule on frequency or method, although it is certain that show dogs, or dogs that are outdoors a great deal in all kinds of weather will require a bath on occasion.

Once you've made up your mind that the time for the bath has arrived, and all mats have been removed from the coat, a wad of cotton in each ear & perhaps a drop of mineral oil in each eye to prevent soap burning, you are almost ready to begin. Provided, of course, you have already placed a rubber mat in the bottom of the sink for sure footage, gathered the towels & shampoos, rinses, combs, & brushes & a dryer.

The kitchen sink is about the best place for a bath, & the water pressure & drainage is ideal for the several soapings & the many rinsings you will want.

Soaping should provide a good thick lather, & this can best be achieved be giving the dog a thorough rinsing with warm water first. You must decide if your dog requires one or two shampoos, (usually two is better) & then follow with a good long rinsing to make sure every last bit of soap is out of the coat.

Start the rinsing & soaping at the rear of the dog. The noise & feel of the water will be more readily accepted if it is away from the face & first touches that more heavily coated areas of the body. Let a little water gather in the sink so that the feet are soaked will; it will help melt away any heavy dirt that might be stuck to the pads or toes. When you get to the head, be sure to hold the head back & protect the eyes from any direct stream of water or soap. Cup water in your hands to wet the head at first & gradually work up to the spray. Separate the coat as you rinse. Use the cream rinse after the two shampoos & follow the directions on the bottle very carefully. Once you are sure that you have given several good rinsings, do it once more for good measure!

Many breeders use a special rinse for whit dogs. Here again it would be wise to consult the breeder of your dog about what is best for the particular coat your dog has. Many of the pet shops have personnel who can also advise you on brands that are available & you can perhaps try different ones until you are completely satisfied with the results. Follow the directions carefully.

Let the water from the rinsings run off & make sure the feet have not gathered any of the soap or residue washing down the sink. Let the dog "drip dry" for a few minutes while you gently squeeze out the heavily coated parts of the body. Then throw a turkish towel over the dog & gently squeeze the coat dry with the towel. Always squeeze the coat; never rub it or you will tangle the coat.

Once you have most of the drippings in the towel, lift the puppy, wrapped in the towel, out of the tub & onto the grooming table. While the excess is still soaking into the towel, turn on your dryer & let it warm up before you direct the air current at the dog for the blow-dry. This will also give the dog time to get used to the sound of the dryer as well. We must remember that their hearing is much more acute than ours, & this must be a most unpleasant sound for them.

When the dryer has warmed up, place the dog in the air stream & with the brush, start gently going over the entire body brushing within the current of warm air. Allow approximately one foot of space between the dog & dryer & once again brush in layers or in the direction in which the coat is to fall. Be sure to dry evenly all over the body & not just in on e spot.

When brushing the feet & legs, it is helpful to place the dog's feet at the edge of the table sot hat you can brush from the skin to the ends of the hair without hitting the table.

Never dry just the ends of the hair while the remaining hair next to the skin stays wet. Don't bathe the dog unless you are prepared to finish the job once you have started it. When the dog is completely dry continue with the normal grooming final touches.

Some Maltese love the water, but not a bath. So be sure to talk to your dog & reassure it so the next bath will be even easier. Every once in a while pick it up & hug it & take a whiff of that marvelous sweet freshness! It can make all the effort seem worthwhile.

How often to bathe is a personal decision, as often as necessary for the pet dog. The general consensus of opinion among exhibitors of show dogs seem to be around every seven to ten days. Others hold with once a month, or when necessary.

If your Maltese is to be a show dog, there are several additional phases, which will further enhance its coat & appearance in the ring. With so many combinations available, the entire process might seem to be one of trial & error. Since all products, with rare exception, are of good quality, the selection can be said to be "to each his own" when selecting products. It is for this reason that it is advisable to spend a great deal of time observing others until you learn the technique & profit from their experience.

While we have already discussed the fact that diet plays a large part in a good coat, & inheritance another, & wrapping yet another, there are additional aids if a dog is inclined to have a poor, dry coat. Hot oil treatments or "putting a dog down in oil" between shows is yet another contributing factor to a good coat.

Warm olive oil applied to the roots after a bath & gently worked into the coat clear out to the ends will help if heat is also applied by means of got towels or a warm dryer for several minutes. Mineral oil, baby oil, corn oil, coconut oil or perhaps other oils are sometimes used, but caution must be taken to see that the oil does not discolor the white coat. You must also be careful that the dog does not stain the furniture while down in oil & before you have had a chance to wash it out.

Never brush if the coat is dirty & when it is dry. Even a spraying with water as you brush will help. After a bath a spray of half water & half cream rinse will put a lovely finishing touch on the coat.

In recent years more & more Maltese have been seen with their hair braided or plaited. While in the past the hair was put up in top knots with a bow & falling in a cascade, we are now noticing little braids, perhaps with bows at the ends.

These tiny little braids serve several purposes. They keep the hair out of the eyes & also train the "part" for the correct fall of the hair. It alleviates the need for barrettes, bows or rubber bands in most cases & the dogs seldom scratch at them if they are done properly. The braids are easy to do & they should lie close to the body & not stick out from it. The silky quality of the hair gives it a natural tendency to fall down so if the braids stick out, redo them. Just as you must take down the wrappers every few days, the braids should be redone also. The hair must be quite long to make a decent braid so don't give up on it too soon.

Not that raiding is anything new

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